South from Granada - and a little to the west - lies the Valley of Lecrin, the Valley of Happiness according to the Moors and an area of outstanding natural beauty with vast skies and stunning vistas. Its rolling hills topped with Moorish watch towers, tiny hermitages and aromatic pine forests, its deep ravines, precipitous cliffs and abundance of water form the backdrop to the soft greens of olive plantations silhouetted against extraordinary red hillsides, glistening dark green citrus groves and delicate, spindly almond trees.

This is a fertile area where farming is still the principal occupation, much of it on ancient narrow terraces inaccessible to motorised transport. The local campesinos increasingly have their small white vans and trailers, but mules are still widely used and local village houses have cavernous storage rooms with stable space for mule and dog.

The seasons are clearly defined here; shops, bars and restaurants reflect the changing produce of the valley and the landscape changes colour and scent throughout the year. In January, the first whispy clouds of pink and white almond blossom appear, later on the orange blossom fills the valley with a heavy perfume and the oranges and lemons glow. Spring flowers are abundant, blues and purples compete with the astonishing red of the poppies. Later still, yellow broom dominates the hillsides and passing flocks of goats release the scent of wild lavender, thyme and rosemary. Pomegranates, the symbol of Granada, make their exotic appearance in late August and September, although the fiery red blossoms have provided colour from spring onwards.

There are 17 or more villages in the valley. Many of the villages date back to Moorish times, some to the period after the reconquest of Granada in 1492. All are white pueblos with narrow thoroughfares, sleepy plazas and domed churches and each has its own fiestas celebrated with noisy good humour, much music and spectacular fireworks.

The Valley of Lecrin:

The area has much to offer the traveller and holiday maker, particularly if they are willing to do some walking, use local shops and bars and try a little Spanish. Local people are welcoming and friendly, pleased that the area has attracted interest from foreign visitors. The local councils have begun to take increasing notice of their cultural background and history. As you travel around the valley, you will see newly erected signs informing you of Roman or Arab baths, ruined castles, old olive mills and interesting churches. Documentation is frustratingly sparse about many of these sights, postcards are rare, but visitors will make their own discoveries and will treasure the experience.

Beaches and water sports:
The coast is 30 to 40 minutes away down a spectacular main road which has been upgraded. There are marinas at Motril and Marina del Este (between Almunecar and La Herradura), wide beaches at Salobrena, Almunecar and La Herradura. The popular resort of Nerja with its shops, facilities and stunning caves is a little further. Water sports are available, jetskis, paragliding and diving and all ages will enjoy the water parks in Almunecar and Cenes de la Vega on the outskirts of Granada.

Skiing:
The resort of Sierra Nevada is one of the highest in Europe and provides a season beginning in early December and lasting until May. The journey up to the snow takes about 45 minutes on an excellent road; facilities are well organised and, although the skiing is not as varied as in some French resorts, it is extensive.

©Lecrinvalley 2003

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