Village notes

Albuñuelas
Saleres
Restabal
Melegis
Pinos del Valle
Conchar
Lecrin (Talara)/ Mondujar
Chite
Murchas
Durcal
Niguelas
Acequias

Los Guajares: Guajar faraguit, Guajar Alto & Fondon

Albuñuelas:
This is an old village dating back to the 10th and 11th centuries and was on the routes of al Idrisi, the first Arab geographer and Leon the African who travelled from central Africa to Granada. It is perched on the slopes above the Rio Santo with stunning views across the gorge, the Sierra de Albuñuelas and the Sierra de Las Guajaras.

The village is divided into the upper and lower barrios or quarters. The shops and bars are in the upper barrio, but all are within walking distance.

There are two main supermarkets: Coviran and Serprix which are found quite easily on the main road into the upper barrio. Coviran is on the left as you travel in, and Serprix/Lucena is on the right further along the road. Both supermarkets will deliver to your house. There are two bakeries in the village and both deliver bread, croissantes and cakes in small white vans each morning around 9.30am and at lunch time. Fresh fish is delivered by van most mornings around the village and vegetables and melons come once or twice a week, often at the weekends. Butano (bottled gas) is delivered weekly: Repsol (orange bottles) on Wednesdays and CEPSA (aluminium bottles) on Fridays. If you need gas you will need to exchange an empty bottle for a full one. The cost is about 9€. There is a bank in the main square and a pharmacy and local doctor near the school on the main street.

There are several bars, which are traditional, local establishments. The two bars which are most accessible and also serve food are: Bar Careto, which is on the left as you enter the main part of the village - just on the left on the first major double bend and Tres Lindes: which you will find further into the upper barrio on the right hand corner of the first large square. They both serve good local food and are often willing to cook specially for visitors - with a little notice- especially Tres Lindes.

Postage stamps are available at Bar Careto, look for the Tabacos sign over the entrance.

There are good walks down into the gorge from the upper and lower barrios and there is a very pleasant walk down to Saleres from Calle Mojon (E4 GR7) in the lower barrio. Follow the red and white stripes painted on the fences and walls! If you want more detail, you should contact us for local maps and walking guides. There is a forest road above Albunuelas, accessed from the Albunuelas/Granada road, which provides stunning views across the countryside. It is accessible by 2 wheel drive cars, although 4 wheel drive cars are possibly more comfortable. This road links up to the road from Granada to Almunecar on the coast and provides a dramatic drive down to Almunecar or across to Lake Bermejales.

Albunuelas has two main fiestas, one in January linked to the hermitage of San Sebastian in the lower barrio and the main one in mid August, a lively affair with a week of music, entertainment and a huge display of fireworks. Expect the local band to serenade you throughout and join in - festivities finish quite late!

More detailed information on Albuñuelas here.

Saleres:
This small village has a population of no more than 300 people and it hugs the slopes of the lower part of the Rio Santo gorge below Albunuelas (usually called the Rio Albunuelas here). The cobbled streets are very picturesque and you will see some intriguing and beautiful old doors and facades as you walk through. There is an ancient wheat and olive mill nestling in the valley below the village - so much a part of the landscape it is almost impossible to see at certain times of the year.

Saleres.

Many villagers still have their mules since it is not possible to reach all the terraces and fincas with vans; the twenty first century replacement, the small tractor or mechanical mule, is not available to all and certainly not as adaptable. The sixteenth century church with its bell tower and ceramic tiled decoration is highlighted in guide books as worthy of a visit - the gilded reredos behind the altar is quite beautiful. From here it is possible to walk up the gorge to Albunuelas, across the river and up on to the ridge in both directions; the views are worth it! You can continue down the valley along the GR7 towards Restabal or alternatively turn northwards up the old Camino Real (the old main road down to the coast) towards Granada.

The streets of Saleres are narrow and not easily accessible by car; the almost medieval entrance to the lower part of the village is where local traders set up stalls on a regular basis for fresh produce, groceries, clothes, and all sorts of other goods including artificial flowers, art work, wrought iron, ceramics and the inevitable mops and buckets! Deliveries of fish, meat and eggs advertise their arrival with sounding horns and booming calls, which have probably not changed in years. Local bakeries deliver bread each day; their vans buzz through the streets without hesitation.

There is a one day fiesta in the village on July 28th and the main celebration in October with bands and, of course, fireworks!

Restabal:
The village is the administrative centre for the area known as El Valle - the villages of Melegis, Restabal and Saleres and is where you will find the town hall, bedecked with flags, and the mayor. There are several bars and shops in the village, all of which can be found in the area beyond the main square past the town hall, together with a bank, pharmacy, school and doctor's surgery. Bar Jovi and its adjoining restaurant Meson La Despensa del Valle are renowned for its food.

Restabal at sunset.

Restabal has the remains of an Arab castle and baths and stunning views across the lake from the road to Pinos del Valle. There are excellent walks down to the lake of Beznar and up into the hills.
Restabal's main fiesta is at the end of July dedicated to Santa Ana and another in December around Christmas.

Melegis:
The village is almost at the centre of the valley and is unusual because it is fairly flat and contains a number of houses with large gardens or orchards. These are known as huertas or huertos according to whether they are used for citrus trees or for vegetable plots. Many of them have been adapted for more modern use with the construction of swimming pools. The village, consequently, has lots of green areas and, since it is also surrounded by a significant concentration of orange and lemon plantations, is a very fragrant place in the spring when the orange blossom is in flower. At the centre of the village is a large sixteenth century church which has recently been restored - definitely worth a visit! There are some very large and impressive seigneurial houses here, with huge wooden doors opening into Arab style courtyards and beautiful arched open miradors on the second floors. There were at least two olive mills - both now no longer in use. There are two small supermarkets in the village and two bakeries (one on the main road). Two bar/restaurants within easy walking distance are both on the main road: Los Naranjos is on the lower side of the village and has a very pleasant outside terrace with lovely views and Nuevo Valle, on the opposite side of the road further up the hill, also has a large outside terrace. Both serve good quality local food and very good tapas. The Tabacos near the office sells postage stamps.

Below the village is a maze of small lanes through the orange groves and it is possible to find a ruined Moorish castle at the entrance to the gorge on the Rio Durcal. The walking opportunities are excellent, down to the lake, up into the hills and, should you wish, continue further along the GR7 to Murchas!
Melegis has a Fiesta de Las Naranjas in April - an opportunity to sample orange juice, migas, remojon (the local orange and bacalao salad) and its main celebration in June - often a communal paella here as well as cycle race, lots of music and the inevitable spectacular fireworks.

Poppies in May. Between Melegis and Murchas

Murchas:
This small village, just off the main road down the valley, occupies a hillside on one side of the Rio Torrente. It has a small supermarket and excellent bakery just off the main square. There are no bars or restaurants but it is possible to do some good walks through the olive and citrus groves down to Melegis and to the Arab castle. Part of the European walking route GR7 runs through Murchas to the Alpujarras.
Murchas celebrates in January with the Fiesta de la Virgen de los Desamparados and Santa Lucia; its village band is well known in the area.

Pinos del Valle:
Pinos is in a stunning position on the hillside above the reservoir of Beznar and has good access to the motorway. It is divided into two barrios, each with an imposing church. There is a good bakery near the main square in the upper barrio and a particularly good local supermarket near the church. There is a supermarket en route into the lower barrio, a bakery and a pharmacy near the church. You may have to wait to be served in both these places - they are normally very busy - particularly since the shop in the upper barrio is open on Sundays! There are two bars on the main street up into the upper barrio, Venecio serves simple food - mostly raciones (small dishes) but will respond to requests in advance. It has a pleasant terrace with good views. A new bar has opened which is just off the main street, a little further down.

Lower barrio, Pinos.

The minor road from Pinos to Motril is worth driving. It takes you through imposing scenery and past an old Moorish red fort high on the hills with views up the valley and down to the coast. If you follow the signs for Guajar Alto - you will find two very pleasant restaurants: Los Olivos and Las Carmenes at the top of the main street.
Pinos parties twice a year in May (Santo Cristo del Zapato) and mid August (San Roque). The entertainment is lively - don't expect to have an early night during the week of fiesta!

Conchar:
There is only one main road into the village, a stunning drive along the edge of the gorge of the Rio Durcal, although there is a track down a small valley at the opposite end of the village. As you travel into the village you will see the ruined watch tower L'atalaya de Conchar built by the Arab rulers of Granada.

There are no shops or supermarkets here but local traders bring goods by van each day. There is a very good bakery in a small square off Calle Bajo. The centre of the village is dominated by the church, also restored, and the raised plaza in front. There is a small bar/restaurant La Huertacilla on the edge of the village, which serves good local food and has a terrace outside with wonderful views. There are some excellent walks down the valley from here.

Conchar's main fiesta is also mid August dedicated to San Roque, but there is also a very lively wine festival on New Year's Day .

Lecrin (Talara)/ Mondujar:
It is almost impossible to see where the divisions between Talara and Lecrin occur, what is important is that you can get most things here! There are banks, shops, an excellent pharmacy and bars in Lecrin, as well as a small post office. There are three Coviran supermarkets where you can buy most things. Bar Garvi on the corner serves good local food and great tapas and Bar Arlequin is the place to buy wild boar sandwiches in the hunting season! There are two discos here.

The bakery, Talara.

The back streets of these villages are full of surprises. Strangers are welcomed with a smile and in these streets you will find bakers, carpenters and blacksmiths with the older people sitting outside their beautiful village houses.

There are Roman remains here - a part excavated baths is visible on an unassuming street corner and on the edge of the village, a new housing development unearthed an ancient burial site of the Moors. The main church is in the centre of the village, but there is also a tiny hermitage perched on a small hill on the outskirts - now a real landmark since it is floodlit at night.

Mondujar is more easily distinguishable since it clusters around its old church, also floodlit. Legend has it that some of the Moorish leaders were buried here after the conquest of Granada - following an enforced conversion no doubt! Above the village - now on the other side of the main road - is the remains of the Moorish Castillo de Morayma - home to the wife of Boabdil, the last Moorish leader of Granada.

There are fiestas in early January (Talara), early September (Beznar) and early December (Lecrin).

Chite:
Chite flows over a ridge within sight of the main road, so is well placed for the coast and Granada. The village has one small shop. It has a fascinating antiques and bric-a-brac shop called Camelstop in Calle Carniceria, which is run by an English artist.

There are some interesting walks around the village, both upper and lower - and a stunning drive down towards the lake to Mojinar. The church is in the lower part of the village and nearby are a number of interesting old houses - including the intriguing Red House - a traditional Arab courtyard house painted in a stunning dark red pigment. The village is within walking distance of Lecrin.

Chite's main fiesta is at the beginning of June - the patron saint is San Segundo.

Lower Barrio, Chite.

Durcal:
This is the main town of the valley and is worth a visit since it has several supermarkets and a whole range of other shops. It is not a pretty place but it does have a real buzz! There is a fresh fish and vegetables market in a side street near Bar Florida, a local Wednesday market, several bakeries and particularly good pastelerias for cakes and pastries. There are excellent butchers and a delicatessen on the main street and a shop specialising in frozen food lower down, several pharmacies (farmacias) and almost countless numbers of ferreterias - the really fascinating ironmongers and much more which seem to abound in Spain. Close to the centre is a 24 hour health centre - which will cater for emergencies. The visitors who have used the health service here have been full of praise for the treatment they received.

The Durcal cinema goes travelling in the summer and has current films showing in village squares. You need to look at local posters to check dates and programmes. In 2004, they showed Harry Potter and Lord of the Rings! You will also find a number of bars and restaurants. La Buhardilla and Bao Bad are in the plaza behind Bar Florida, Meson Fidel is in the main street. BioDurcal is a larger and very good restaurant on the northern outskirts of the town; follow the road down into the valley - the entrance is on the left hand bend.

Parking is sometimes difficult - it may be easier to park on the outskirts and walk down into the main shopping area until you are more familiar with the layout! You can also pick up a bus to Granada from the main square every 30 minutes.
Durcal has a big fiesta (San Ramon) at the end of August with street parties, competitions and even a bull fight in a temporary stadium on the edge of the town and one in early February dedicated to San Blas - a name much in evidence around the town.

Niguelas:
The village is on the opposite side of the valley, closer to the Sierra Nevada. There are bars, several supermarkets and a bakery, all of which can be found near the church.

The town hall, Niguelas.

There are some ancient buildings here dating back to Moorish times - old mills and houses. The local council has created a beautiful small garden for locals to enjoy and has a well regarded music school. On the outskirts of the village on the road towards Durcal is the restaurant/hostal Alqueria de Los Lentos, a picturesque old water mill, a friendly place with good food, which is a little more interesting than many of the other restaurants.

At the end of the fiesta (Virgen de las Angustias) in September, if funds remain, the council entertains everyone to a huge paella, cooked in a massive pan over a fire in the church square - not to be missed!

There are good walks from the village, up into the national park. You need to take the road down into the valley, across the river and towards the head of the gorge. You can take a well established route to the Alpujarran town of Lanjaron. This takes about 3 hours - it is possible to drive as well since the unmade track is in reasonable condition.

There are plans to make Niguelas a starting point for routes up to the ski resort, which will make the village an interesting option for enthusiasts in the future.

Acequias:
This is a very small, pretty village, close to the Sierra Nevada, on the opposite side of the valley of the Torrente to Nigelas. It is a picturesque spot with no supermarkets or bars and superb views across the valley from the higher part of the village. There are daily deliveries of bread and there is a small travelling supermarket, which visits the village several times a week. There is an old Arab mill at the top of the village and it is possible to walk up into the hills from here.

Los Guajares: Guajar faraguit, Guajar Alto & Fondon
If you take the old road to the coast from Pinos Del Valle (signposted Motril), you will discover a spectacular route, which winds across the hills, past picturesque ruins and dizzy vistas. You will pass through the tiny hamlet of Zaza with its spring of mountain water for thirsty travellers and further along on your left you will glimpse the intriguing dark red Arab fortress, which glows against the sky. It sits very prominently on a saddle of land with endless views down to Salobrena and the Mediterranean in one direction and across to the Alpujarras in another.On the other side of the road here is an almost Italianate house, which was once a staging post for shepherds driving sheep and goats from the coast up to summer pastures or making the seaward journey later in the year.

Several kilometres later you will reach the first of the Guajares - the village of Guajar Faraguit.It has several bars, two small supermarkets, a butcher, a baker and a hairdresser. Ten minutes further up the valley, along an even more beautiful road, is the pretty village of Guajar Alto, which also has several bars - two of which - Los Olivos and Carmen - serve very good local food. An excellent destination for a leisurely lunch! The tarmac road ends here, but if you want to try the unsurfaced track over the Sierra de Guajar, you will be rewarded with memorable and spectacular views above the village and across the hills to Albunuelas. On a clear day you might even see Morrocco! Below Guajar Faraguit lies the village of Fondon which boasts a bar serving very good pizzas.

Each village is well served with bakery and fresh fish vans on a daily basis. The road down to the coast takes about 30 minutes from Faraguit, a little longer from Guajar Alto. The main road also links to the wonderful city of Granada, where there is so much to see and, of course, it now has its international status airport with daily flights to the United Kingdom.

©Lecrinvalley 2004

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