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Oranges are not the only fruit, there are also lemons. The landscape of the Lecrin Valley changes in October, from green to orange, and it lasts through to June. There are many wonderful things to see and do here, but the pleasures are intensified by the green and orange landscape. For nine months of the year our spirits are lifted by intense colours and delicious citrus smells. The Lecrin Valley has a lot of pleasures in store enhanced by a background of orange.
I could get stoned for saying this but I'll say it anyway, don't go to the Alhambra during the day! The reason is just common sense, it's hot and there are crowds. The best kept secret in Granada (until now), is to visit the Alhambra in the evening, it's cool, there are less crowds and you can stroll around in relative peace. If you don't wish to buy a ticket to enter the main buildings and the Generalife gardens, you are able to take in the beauty and experience the old city at your leisure.
The Alhambra is a magical place at night, the air is cleaner, the views of Granada are more spectacular and the atmosphere is richer. Events are staged during the summer and you may get the chance to see some beautiful flamenco or listen to a concert, check with the tourist office before you go. For a special if expensive treat, there's a spectacular bar and restaurant at the Parador.
For a small valley there are hundreds of walks. Ignoring the roads, each village is connected to the next by a series of tracks, from the ancient mule tracks to concrete covered lanes. Most of these tracks have never been mapped so each walk is a mini adventure. Being relaxed by nature I prefer gentle strolls through the orange groves, it's nice and shady, not too hilly. Throughout the walks you can hear the sound of running water as the land is irrigated by the acequias. If you get hot, take your shoes off and put your feet in the water - it cools your whole body. For the serious hiker
(I'm showing my age here, do people hike anymore?), there are the hills
and mountains surrounding the Lecrin Valley where you can spend hours
walking and on very clear days be rewarded with views of the Atlas mountains
in Africa.
I feel sorry for anyone who doesn't enjoy daily deliveries and local markets, they're part of the Spanish morning. In my village three separate bakers deliver bread and cakes six days a week. Each baker is very proud of their bread and will claim it has a unique property, one baker uses spring water while another uses olive wood to heat the oven. Apparently you can taste the difference. There are two fish deliveries every morning except Sunday and Monday, it comes straight from the fish market at Motril and is so fresh it can sometimes be seen moving. There are two deliveries a week of fruit and vegetables, on Tuesday we are visited by the chicken van selling live chickens and on Thursday the egg lady turns up. Two brands of gas are delivered, Repsol on Mondays and Cepsa on Fridays. My two favourite services are the chair man and the knife grinder. The chair man takes away your rush seated chairs for re-covery and repair. The knife grinder arrives on a moped with grindstone attached to the rear wheel. On Monday we have a small market in the church plaza. Depending on the time of year and the weather there can be up to four stalls selling shoes, clothing and household goods. The deliveries and the small market not only provide a useful service but also enable the villagers to socialise. It also gives us non-Spanish the opportunity of experiencing village life.
The centrepiece of the valley is a beautiful lake. The water is used for irrigation of crops towards the coast so the water level can rise and fall perhaps 50 feet throughout the year. I spend a great deal on time at the lake taking photographs and walking Eddie my dog and sometimes I go fishing. As a subject for photography the lake is ideal, reflections in water are a favourite subject of mine. When I go fishing I can't believe my luck. Here I am catching plenty of huge fish with not another fisherman in sight. I used to be a member of a fishing club on the Essex/ Hertfordshire borders, the club owned several lakes and rivers. Because of its popularity I waited several years to join the club and paid a hefty sum in membership each year. During the whole of my last season with the club I caught seven very good fish, on lake Beznar I can catch seven bigger fish in a morning!!
It's strange but you actually see people buying bottled water in the shops here, it's hard to believe but true. One of the great natural wonders of the Lecrin Valley is its abundant suppy of pure spring waters. The most popular spring is at the bottom of the hermitage in Pinos del Valle, people come from all over the valley to fill plastic containers with this water. I know there are springs in Melegis, Acequias, Niguelas and Saleres and I would presume other villages have springs. The water is superb - fresh, clean, cool and polished, great for drinking and cooking and much better than anything that comes out of a bottle or tap. The springs and fuentes are also hives of activity. Ladies washing clothes and household goods, goat herders washing milk churns, mules being watered and cars getting cleaned.
Unlike the UK where the summers can be wet and the winters mild, the Lecrin Valley has four distinct seasons. Because of the altitude and the proximity to the Sierra Nevada mountains, winter days are cold and bright. From November until March you can spend your days skiing, hill walking and cycling, or take a short drive to the coast and find warmer temperatures and deserted beaches. Winter is the most colourful season as the oranges are ripening, there's snow on the mountains and the sky is deep blue. As the ski season comes to an end it's still cool enough to continue walking and cycling, spring brings the added dimension of wild flowers and ripe fruit. Large numbers of migratory birds start arriving from Africa to build nests and rear their young. For fishermen and women this is an excellent time to catch a big carp or bass from the lake. This is a busy time for the farmers, olives and fruit to pick and the land prepared for the next season. Summer arrives in June and the pace of life slows down. Physical activities start earlier and end before 2pm. Long lunches replace long dinners, everything is quiet until late afternoon. The nights are special in the summer, the sky is clear with excellent visibility, you can find yourself star gazing for hours. Exercise is taken early or late and it's quite common to go for a stroll after midnight. The hot summer nights have a sound that's distinct from the other seasons, music, conversation and distant fireworks. When we put covers back on the bed it's a reminder that summer is coming to an end and that autumn is approaching. The daytime temperature drops to a comfortable level, summer visitors have left and the roads are quieter. The autumn brings rain to the valley and snow to the mountains. For a lot of people it's a time for house maintenance and gardening. The autumn is a good time for exploring the region and visiting some of the great cities that are a short drive away or even taking the ferry to Morocco
Andalusian people are in general very friendly and have an excellent sense of humor. The locals display values not seen in the UK for many years, politeness, respect for elders and a willingness to engage in conversation with strangers. You will find them very welcoming and helpful. Non Spanish people moving to the valley soon make friends with the locals and are quickly integrated into the community. Finally! My 10 favourite things are not a top 10 and are not listed in order. Also my favourite things change quite often, so don't take them too seriously.
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